Related: How to Propagate Plants, Best Porch Plants, Air Plant Care

Jade Plant

Jade plants are a popular variety of succulent houseplants. With proper care, these plants can live for 50 or even 100 years. Jade enjoys being in bright light, about 4-6 hours of it a day. Younger jade plants should be in indirect light, but more mature plants can handle some direct sunlight. 

Jade plants are said to bring good luck. Place your jade plant indoors in the southeast direction of your hall or living room to welcome wealth luck. Learn more about jade plant care.

Aloe Vera Plant

I love these plants because when I was child my mom taught me to break a piece off and use it for sunburns and burns. They are easy to keep alive, beautiful and useful. Aloe plants enjoy extended sunlight (a minimum of six hours per day) and should be placed by a window where they can bask in the sun.

ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia or Zanzibar gems)

I love these. They are beautiful and extremely easy to care for. They’re a nice alternative to a snake plant if you need something that’s sort of spiky and vertical for a certain spot in your home. These plants thrive in medium to bright indirect light for at least six hours each day.

Pilea (Chinese Money Plant)

Pilea plants love light. They do best in bright, indirect sunlight. Sitting by a window is a good choice for these plants. Learn to care for a Chinese Money Plant.

Boston Fern

This fern plant thrives in indirect sunlight. They don’t like to be directly in the sun, but they also won’t grow in total shade.

Golden Pothos (Devil’s Ivy)

This plant is super common and easy to find almost anywhere. They are beautiful and easy to keep alive! A golden pothos is an excellent choice for a first plant. Learn to care for a Golden Pothos.

Elephant Ear Plant (Colocasia)

Known for their heart-shaped leaves, these plants love full, indirect sun for at least six hours each day. Choose a pot that is at least 18 inches in diameter, or one gallon.

English Ivy (Hedera helix)

The English Ivy is flexible and can thrive in most lighting conditions. Its favorite is bright light. This plant loves humidity, so misting it daily is a great way to keep it thriving.

String of Pearls

String of Pearls is one of my favorite plants for its beautiful appearance. It’s a unique trailing succulent that looks like a string of peas. They enjoy a bright and sunny location in the home. Learn to care for String of Pearls.

Rubber Plant

A Rubber plant is a beautiful houseplant that I have had great luck keeping alive. A well lit area of your home is crucial to keeping this plant alive. These plant leaves need to be dusted with a damp cloth once in a while. Learn to care for a Rubber Tree.

Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum)

A Peace Lily is easy to care for and blooms flowers starting in early summer. Ideally, peace lilies enjoy bright indirect sunlight, and are a good plant to choose if you have a low light area as they also do well in shade to partial shade. How to Care for a Peace Lily.

Monstera

This plant is very versatile in what lighting conditions it requires. Monsteras like bright indirect light. They can adjust to medium light, but might get leggy in that environment. So, I placed her in a room that has large west-facing windows. How to care for a Monstera plant.

Fiddle Leaf Fig

If you get a fiddle leaf, then find a window with ample light. Be sure that it is bright, indirect light. Don’t stick it in a corner away from the sunlight. These are a type of ficus tree and are native to a tropical environment. How to care for Fiddle Leaf Figs.

Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen)

Aglaonema plants are known for their hardiness and adaptability to a variety of conditions. They are able to thrive in both bright light and low light situations. These easy houseplants are adaptable even to spaces with little light. These are a great choice for an office or rooms with less natural light.

Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans)

Parlor Palms grow best indoors with bright, indirect sunlight. They can also thrive as a low-light plant. They help to purify the air in your home as well.

Snake Plant

I love snake plants. I like the look of these and they will survive practically in the dark, but also tolerate the sun. They are adaptable to nearly any environment. Learn to care for a snake plant.

Cacti

Cacti are easy to care for and make great indoor plants. They require less frequent watering than most plants and they thrive in medium to high indirect sunlight. Cacti have a growing season from March to September, where they can grow rapidly. I often take my cacti outdoors during the summer and bring them back inside for the winter. It’s best to let them get very dry between waterings.

Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum)

We love spider plants. If you are looking for a natural air purifier, you will want to get a spider plant. A recent study indicates that spider plants removed 95% of toxic formaldehyde from the air in a sealed Plexiglass container over a 24-hour period. The spider plant is one of the most popular houseplants. How to care for a Spider Plant.

Calathea Plant (Prayer Plant)

Calathea Plants are easy to care for and present eye catching patterns on their leaves. Calatheas love to be in medium to bright indirect light. They can handle low light situations well, but their color and pattern may not be as vivid as it would be with more light. How to care for Calathea Plants.

Cast Iron Plant

Cast Iron Plants are easy to care for and thrive in low light. They do great in low or medium light and bright light should be avoided.

If you have a favorite indoor plant, we’d LOVE to hear all about it in the comments.

While they are not true lilies (from the Spathiphyllum species), most peace lilies can grow to be between 1-4′ wide and are tropical plants that come from Central and South America. As long as they get enough light, they will produce lovely white flowers starting in the early summer and may continue to bloom throughout the year.

Peace lilies are not happy in the cold, so they can only be grown outside in warmer more humid climates like in USDA Zones 10 and 11. But we’ll show you how to care for and keep your peace lily happy indoors.

Related: Learn to Care for Pilea Plants, Calathea, Monstera Plants, Spider Plants, Fiddle Leaf Figs, Golden Pothos, Jade Plants, Snake Plants, Rubber Trees, and String of Pearls Plants.

Why are they called Peace Lilies?

Peace lilies get their name from the off white flower that is produced on the plant starting in early summer (it’s actually a white leaf surrounding a cluster of tiny flowers on a stalk). The white flowers are reminiscent of white flags of peace, hence the name!

How often should I water Peace Lilies?

You’ll want to give your peace lily a good full drink when you do water it, but let it dry out in between waterings. You can stick your finger in the soil to check how damp the soil is and wait until it feels mostly dry before watering again. Peace lilies are susceptible to root rot, so make sure the planter you use has drainage holes and don’t let the plant sit in standing water if there’s water in the draining tray.

You can also keep an eye on the leaves as they will start to droop when it needs some water. So if your plant starts drooping about a week after watering, then you’ll start to get an idea of how often to water.

Peace lilies are sensitive to tap water, so if you can’t use distilled, filtered, or rainwater, then let your tap water sit out overnight and that will allow the chlorine to dissipate.

How much sunlight do Peace Lilies need?

While ideally peace lilies enjoy bright indirect sunlight, peace lilies are a good plant to choose if you have a low light area as they also do well in shade to partial shade.

Direct light will dry out a peace lily and cause scorching on the leaves. The more bright light a peace lily gets, the more frequently it will flower, so put it in a brighter spot if you want to get the best blooms.

Should I fertilize?

Peace lilies don’t need much fertilizer, but you can use a 20-20-20 fertilizer mixed at one quarter strength to fertilize through the growing season (spring and summer) every other month.

Repotting Peace Lilies

Peace lilies don’t mind being a little pot-bound, but if you see roots starting to grow up through the surface or out the bottom drainage holes, it’s time to move it to a bigger pot. Loosen the roots gently with your hands to break them up a bit and that will encourage the roots to spread out.

Choose a pot that is only about 2″ bigger than the current size as too big a pot will hold too much moisture for the plant and promote root rot. While it’s best to re-pot during the growing months of the year (spring and summer), repotting can be done at any time of the year and you’ll want a good soil that combines drainage and moisture retention.

Temperature and humidity for Peace Lilies

Ideal indoor temperatures for peace lilies are between 65°F and 75°F and you’ll want to keep them away from drafty doors or windows. If you keep a potted plant outside, make sure to bring it in once temperatures dip into the 50°s.

Being a tropical plant, peace lilies enjoy humidity, so giving them light mistings with a spray bottle will help them feel more at home. You can also place them on top of gravel on a tray and then pour some water into the gravel, which will create humidity around the plant as it evaporates. Just make sure the water level is below the gravel so the plant is not sitting directly in water.

Pruning Peace Lilies

Once a stalk has flowered, that stalk won’t produce any more blooms, so you can cut the stalk off at the bottom with clean scissors or shears (make sure to disinfect your snippers with  isopropyl alcohol between cuts so you don’t spread disease).

Yellowed or shriveled leaves can also be cut off at the base to clean up the appearance of the plant.

Propagating Peace Lilies

You can divide peace lilies into several plants by removing it from its pot and gently trying to separate the crowns of the plant. You can also use a sharp knife to cut the roots if they won’t separate easily and then simply replant the pieces in their own container with a good soil that combines drainage and moisture retention.

Can Peace Lilies grow in water?

Peace lilies can be grown in water rather than a traditional soil container. You can grow them in water by:

• Taking it out of its pot and rinsing the soil off the roots with lukewarm water (cut off any roots with signs of root rot).
• Position the plant in a clean glass vase so its roots are touching the bottom.
• Add distilled, filtered, or rainwater to the vase to cover the roots. Make sure it doesn’t go all the way up to the leaves or stems as the water will cause them to rot.
• You can add a few drops of liquid fertilizer and place it in indirect sunlight to help it grow.

To minimize transplant shock, you can also add some soil that the plant was in to the water and then change the water weekly to have less and less soil until it’s all water. This will acclimate it more slowly to the water for a better chance of success.

Diagnosing common problems

• Brown leaf tips: Could be from using tap water. Try trimming the brown parts off the leaves if you like (although leaving them doesn’t hurt the plant) and using filtered, distilled, or rainwater instead. Or you can leave out your tap water overnight in your watering can before watering and that will help dissipate the chlorine.
• Pests: Small pests like spider mites and aphids can bother peace lilies, but you can wipe off the leaves and then spray with an insecticidal soap to keep bugs away.
• Plant not flowering: Peace lilies need a certain amount of light to flower, so you may need to move them to a sunnier spot to encourage flower growth.
• Green or weak flowers: Green flowers can be a sign of over-fertilizing, while weak flowers can mean your plant could use a dose of fertilizer to strengthen the plant a bit (try one that is made for flowering plants).

While we are used to seeing the Poinsettia during the cold months of the year, it’s actually a tropical plant native to Mexico. The colorful leaves (from white to light pink to bright red) are the plant’s response to shorter sunlight hours in the winter, which is why they don’t bloom all year long.

The “flowers” of Poinsettia are actually types of leaves called bracts, but there are tiny yellow flowers in the center (called cyathia) which attract insects and fall off after pollination.

Related: Learn to Care for Christmas Cactus, Pilea Plants, Monstera Plants, Calathea, Spider Plants, Peace Lilies, Fiddle Leaf Figs, Golden Pothos, Snake Plants, Rubber Trees, and String of Pearls Plants.

How often should I water Poinsettia?

You’ll want to keep the soil moist but not soggy (that can lead to root rot), so feel the top of your soil and once it starts to feel almost dry it’s time to water again.

Use a pot with drainage holes at the bottom to prevent root rot, or if you like the decorative foil they come in, remove it from the foil and water in the sink replacing it back in the foil once excess water has drained.

How much sunlight do Poinsettia need?

Indoors Poinsettia like bright indirect sunlight, so keep them where the light is bright but not directly hitting the plant.

Should I fertilize my Poinsettia?

If you are just keeping your plant over the holiday season, then there’s no need to fertilize it. If you are trying to keep it beyond Christmas, you can fertilize it every month with half strength all-purpose fertilizer once you see new growth starting to appear on the plant.

Temperature and humidity for Poinsettia plants

Indoor Poinsettia will do best between 65-70° F and you’ll want to keep them above 50° or you risk damage or them dying due to cold. If you want to decorate your porch with them, you’ll have to live in a place that doesn’t drop below 50° at night. If you are buying one from a store and it’s cold outside, keep it covered with a bag and don’t let it sit in a cold car for hours before taking it inside.

Like most plants, you’ll want to keep your Poinsettia away from areas with big temperature changes, so place them away from outside doors, drafts, heating vents, etc.

Since they are a tropical plant, Poinsettias enjoy more humid locations, so you can put a humidifier in the room with them to keep them happy.

Repotting Poinsettia plants

If you are just keeping your plant over the holiday season, you won’t need to worry about repotting it.

If you are trying to keep it alive until the next holiday season, in late spring or early summer you can remove the plant from the old pot and carefully wash the old soil from the roots of the plant. Repot your poinsettia into a larger pot that’s about 2 to 4 inches bigger than the original container. Use a pot with good drainage and choose a soil mix that has a lot of organic matter (like peat moss).

Propagating Poinsettia plants

You can actually propagate Poinsettia plants from cuttings and grow yourself a new plant within a few weeks. To propagate Poinsettia:

• Add potting soil to a small cup or small pot.
• Use pruning shears to cut off a 3-4″ section of an actively growing branch and pinch off the lower leaves leaving the top leaves to provide water for the plant.
• Optional, but you can dip the cut end into a rooting hormone before sticking the cut end into the dirt.
• Once the cut end is planted in the dirt, keep the new plant in a humid area that’s away from direct sunlight. You don’t need to water it as it will pull water from its leaves, but to increase the humidity, you can mist the leaves with water and put a small plastic bag over the cup to encourage it to grow.
• In about four weeks you should notice roots growing from the cutting and you can replant it in a pot with drainage holes and start to water as usual.

How to get Poinsettia to rebloom

If you want to keep your plant alive all year long and see it bloom again next holiday season, you’ll need to give it some extra care as they can be quite finicky and particular.

Start to hold back on your watering in April so that the plant begins to dry out (but not so little water that the stem starts to shrivel) and place it in an area that’s around 60°.

In mid-May, you can prune back the plant to about 4″ stems and repot the plant in a slightly larger pot. Put the plant in a spot with lots of indirect light and start to water it regularly again. As new growth starts to appear, you can begin to fertilize it monthly.

Pinch back the stems once in July and again in August.

In order for the plant to bloom, it needs to have 10 weeks of 12 hours or less of sunlight each day, so starting in October you’ll have to keep the plant in total uninterrupted darkness from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m. daily. You can put the plant in a closet or even under a box, anywhere that’s warm but dark!

It’s a lot of work but a fun experiment to see if you can successfully mimic the darkness it needs to show its true colors.

Diagnosing common problems

• Wilted or curled leaves: The plant probably needs more water. Give it a good watering and see if the leaves perk up within a day or two.
• Leaf loss: Leaf loss can be due to many factors like underwatering, overwatering, too cold, or too dry of a climate. If the soil is dry and the leaves are falling, try watering to see if that restores the plant. If the soil feels wet when they are dropping then you may be overwatering and need to let the soil dry out almost fully between watering. Check to make sure the plant is away from cold areas (like right next to a window or near a door draft) and you can try a humidifier or plant mister if you suspect your air is too dry for the plant.
• Lower leaves yellowing: If the bottom leaves of your plant are yellowing and falling off, it may be due to not getting enough light and you may need a sunnier location with more indirect light.

The blooms of the Christmas Cactus are triggered by temperature and day length (called a “thermo-photoperiodic” response), so you’ll have to pay close attention to a few details if you want to keep your cactus and have it bloom year after year (which is similar to the Poinsettia plant!).

This plant is made of segmented stems with notched details on the edges of the leaves and it blooms tubular flowers in late fall to early winter. Originating from the rainforests of Brazil, it usually grows in crevices of rocks or on trees covered in moss.

Related: Learn to Care for Pilea Plants, Monstera, Jade Plants, Calathea, Spider Plants, Fiddle Leaf Figs, Peace Lilies, Golden Pothos, Snake Plants, Rubber Trees, and String of Pearls Plants.

Varieties of Christmas Cactus

There are three main types of Christmas Cactus you can choose from:

• Easter Cactus: (S. gaertneri) Bloom from later winter to mid-spring with rounded leafs and tiny bristles at the edges.
• Thanksgiving Cactus: (Schlumbergera truncata) These are often mistaken for Christmas Cacti and bloom from late fall to mid-winter. The flower colors can be red, pink, peach, purple, orange, or white and it features claw-shaped projections on its leaves.
• Christmas Cactus: (S. x buckleyi) Bloom from early to mid-winter with white and magenta flowers. It has rounded flat leaf segments with notches around the edges.

How much sunlight does a Christmas Cactus need?

You’ll want light that is bright but indirect for your Christmas Cactus. While it can tolerate some direct light, you’ll want to minimize it as too much can cause the leaves to burn.

If you are trying to encourage a plant to rebloom next holiday season, you’ll need to give it at least 13 hours of total uninterrupted darkness starting in mid-October in order to get buds to form for the plant to flower.

How often should you water a Christmas Cactus?

While Christmas Cactus do require more water than some other drought-tolerant cacti varieties, watering your cactus too much can lead to root rot, so you’ll want to make sure your cactus dries out enough between watering.

Stick your finger in the soil to check the water level and once the top 2″ of dirt feel dry, give it a good watering. Make sure to use a pot with drainage holes so the plant has good drainage away from its roots.

Should you fertilize a Christmas Cactus?

You can fertilize your Christmas Cactus with a general all-purpose fertilizer monthly when the plant is blooming. If you are trying to keep it past the holiday season, you can keep fertilizing monthly until early fall.

In mid-October, stop feeding and wait until the plant blooms again to resume a monthly fertilization schedule.

Temperature and humidity level for Christmas Cactus

Since they originate from the rainforest, Christmas Cactus enjoy higher humidity and temperatures between 70°F and 80°F. Once buds fully appear, they require lower nighttime temperatures between 55°F and 65°F.

Like most plants, keep it away from heating vents, outside doors, and drafty areas near windows as temperature changes can cause it to drop its buds or flowers.

You can add more humidity to your home with a humidifier or you can put some pebbles and water in a tray and simply place your pot on top (make sure the water level sits below the top of the pebbles). The pot will sit on top of the stones and the water in the tray will evaporate and create humidity around the plant. You can also lightly mist the plant occasionally to add more humidity.

Bathrooms or kitchens are a great spot for Christmas Cactus (as long as it has the proper light for them) as they are a more humid environment.

Pruning Christmas Cactus

While you can snip off faded flowers to redirect the plant’s energy to other areas, Chrismas Cacti don’t need pruning unless your plant has grown larger than you would like and you want to keep it more compact.

Repotting Christmas Cactus

Christmas Cacti are low maintenance in this area as they will actually tend to bloom better when they are a little root bound.

You can replant them into a slightly larger container with good draining soil (in a pot with drainage holes) every three years or so during the spring.

Propagating Christmas Cactus

You can easily propagate Christmas Cacti from cuttings of the original plant. Just make sure to wait until the plant has finished flowering. So, early spring is the best time to make cuttings rather than when it’s forming buds in the fall. All you have to do is:

1. Prepare a small pot of potting soil or cactus mix.
2. Using sterile scissors or shears, cut off stems of cactus that have 3-5 sections on each stem. You can plant several sections in one pot, so cut up to 5 stems to plant in one container.
3. Let the ends dry out for 4-5 days until a callous forms over the cut area.
4. Push the dried ends into the soil about 1″ deep using 3-5 stems per pot.
5. In about two weeks, your roots will develop but you want to keep it well watered while it’s rooting and you can place a plastic bag over the top to increase the humidity until the roots have taken hold.
6. Look for new leaf and stem growth before repotting it in a larger container.

Encouraging Christmas Cactus to bloom

If you want to keep your Christmas Cactus and encourage it to bloom next holiday season, you’ll need to give it some extra TLC throughout the year:

• In mid-October, stop fertilizing and hold off on watering the plant until buds appear.
• Keep your cactus in an area that stays between 50°-60°F.
• Limit the hours of light the cactus receives for the next 6-8 weeks as it needs about 13 hours of uninterrupted total darkness each night (you can place a black cloth over it or put it in a closet). If your room is warmer than 60°, try giving it a few extra hours of darkness each day to make up for the warmer conditions.
• Once flower buds have fully formed, move the plant to an area with bright indirect light and wait for buds to fully open (you don’t need to give them 13 hours of darkness at this point anymore). Make sure to keep watering the plant once it flowers as it may drop its buds if it gets too dry.
• If you find that the cactus buds fall off the first winter, try again as it can still bloom the following year.

Diagnosing common problems

• Blossom drop: Sudden changes in temperature can cause flowers or blossoms to drop, so make sure your plant is situated away from drafty areas or heating vents.
• Puckered or shriveled leaves: Under watering can cause leaves to pucker or shrivel, so feel the soil and if it’s dry, water thoroughly and see if the plant perks up in a day or so.
• Mealy bugs: These tiny bugs can be spotted by the small cottony masses that they build on the plant. Try removing the masses with a toothpick or clean the plant with a soft toothbrush.
• Spider mites: While the actual mites are hard to see with just your eye, if you see tiny spotting or webbing on your plant, you probably have an issue with spider mites. Use an insecticidal soap spray to remove them and keep the plant wiped clean as mites are attracted to dust.
• Root rot: When over watered Christmas Cactus are more susceptible to root rot, so make sure the cactus dries out enough between waterings to avoid conditions that are too soggy.

These beauties can grow up to 3 feet tall when grown indoors, and while they can be grown outside as well, they will need to come in for the winter if it gets too cold. Jade is a slow growing plant, so don’t expect more than 2 inches of growth a year.

Jade plants are part of the orpine family (Crassulaceae) and native to southern Africa. They don’t need a lot of water as they store water in their fleshy leaves and stems, and they are more OK with being root bound than other plants, so you don’t have to repot them as often as others.

Related: Learn to Care for Pilea Plants, Calathea, Spider Plants, Fiddle Leaf Figs, Golden Pothos, Snake Plants, Rubber Trees, Christmas Cactus, and String of Pearls Plants.

How often should I water jade plants?

Jade plants will need to be watered more in the growing season (spring and summer) and less during the dormant fall and winter months. During the growing season, you’ll want to water the plant so it’s fully wet all the way to the bottom (not just at the top) and then let it get mostly dry before watering again. Overwatering can be a big problem for jade plants, so make sure to let the soil dry out some between waterings.

During the fall and winter, the plant won’t need as much water, so you can let the soil fully dry between waterings. Jade plants can be sensitive to tap water, so using distilled, filtered, or rainwater is ideal.

How much sunlight do jade plants need?

Jade plants are native to hot and sunny environments, so they enjoy being in bright light, about 4-6 hours of it a day. Younger jade plants should be in indirect light but more mature plants can handle some direct sunlight. South and western facing windows will give the best light.

If jade plants don’t get enough bright light, they can become leggy (they will elongate and stretch out rather than looking more compacted as they usually do). Rotate your plant every so often so it doesn’t get lopsided as it will stretch and reach for the sun.

Should I fertilize my jade plant?

Jade plants don’t need a lot of nutrients, so they don’t need to be fertilized much. But you can give it a diluted half-strength dose of fertilizer every two months during the growing season.

Temperature and humidity for jade plants

The ideal temperature for jade plants is between 65° to 75°F when grown indoors. They don’t like to be colder than 50°, so make sure to bring them inside if you keep them outdoors in planters.

Pruning jade plants

Prune in spring or early summer when the plant is starting its growing season. Look for leggy sections that are longer and usually thinner than the other sections with the leaves more spread out. Those leggy areas are less healthy and can be pruned off with sharp scissors or pruning shears by cutting them back one third of their length.

You can also prune any leaves that are yellowing or have dark spots as those can be signs of disease in the plant. Sanitize your cutting shears between cuts so you don’t spread disease to the rest of the plant. Dried and dead branches can be cut where they meet the trunk.

To encourage the plant to grow taller rather than wider, you can also pinch off the new growth of tiny leaves at the end of stems with your fingers.

Repotting jade plants

Jade plants actually do really well being root bound in a small pot. While younger jade plants can be repotted every 2-3 years, more mature plants can be repotted every 4-5 years and you’ll want to choose a pot that’s not much larger than the rootball (too much soil around it can encourage it to hold too much moisture for its liking). If repotting into the same size plant, prune the roots back so there’s room for them to grow.

It’s best to repot in the spring and hold off on watering the newly moved plant for a week or so (and don’t fertilize for a month to avoid damage to the new roots).

Propagating jade plants

You can propagate your jade plant and grow a whole new one from simply planting a stem or even a single leaf! You’ll want to do it before the dormant winter months (summer is best) and only with mature plants.

To propagate:

Cut stem or leaf: Using clean scissors or shears, cut off a 3-4″ stem or gently break off a single leaf.

Allow cutting to “heal”: Let the cutting sit unplanted in a warm space so that a callous will form over the cut area (this will encourage the cutting to grow roots rather than rot).

Plant cutting: Using well-draining potting mix, lay your leaf horizontally on the top of the soil and cover the cut end with some of the soil. Stems can be planted into the soil directly and you can use skewers or toothpicks to prop it up as needed. Don’t water the plant (although you can lightly mist it if you want), just place it in a warm bright place.

Let roots develop: It takes a week or so before the cutting will start to develop roots. You can gently tug on the leaf or stem to see if it has started rooting and once you feel that its roots are firmly developed you can start to water it deeply to encourage the roots to reach down to get the water.

Diagnosing common problems

• Pests: While there aren’t a lot of pests that bother jade plants, mealybugs are the most common problem (they look like small fuzzy white spots). To remove them, you can use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol and clean the plant daily for several days or weeks to make sure all the bugs have been removed.
• Plant is dropping leaves/brown spots on leaves/shriveled leaves: Your jade plant is probably not getting enough water. Water deeply and let soil dry out some before watering again and make sure to check water levels more in growing season.
• Plant has mushy or squishy leaves: Your plant may be getting too much water. Make sure the soil is almost dry in growing season before watering again and let soil completely dry out before watering in the dormant fall and winter months.
• Plant is losing leaves: Could be a sign that the plant is not getting enough light. Make sure it’s getting 6 hours of bright but indirect sunlight a day.

Calathea plants are native to the tropical Americas and have also been referred to as prayer plants because of their special ability to move throughout the day. This unique trait is called nyctinasty and the Calathea can lower its leaves during the day to receive more light and pull them up at night.

They are grown outside in tropical climates, but are usually houseplants in other locations as they cannot tolerate the cold. Because of the bold veins and stripes on Calathea plants, they have also been called peacock plants, zebra plants, or rattlesnake plants.

Related: Learn to Care for Pilea Plants, Jade Plants, Monstera Plants, Fiddle Leaf Figs, Golden Pothos, Snake Plants, Peace Lilies, Rubber Trees, Spider Plants, Christmas Cactus, Poinsettia, and String of Pearls Plants.

Popular types of Calathea plants

• Calathea Makoyana: Often referred to as the peacock plant, this variety boasts dark green leaves with cream, purple, and pink tones with red stems.
• Calathea Louisae: These have dark green leaves with wavy edges and lighter green patches down the midvein.
• Calathea Lancifolia: Also known as the rattlesnake plant, this variety has slender green leaves with dark green blotches and a purple underside.
• Calathea White Fusion: This beautiful plant is the queen of the Calathea variety and has variegated shades of green, white, and even lilac in its leaves.
• Pin Stripe Calathea Ornata: This plant boasts dark green glossy leaves with pink pinstripes.

How often should I water Calathea plants?

Calatheas like a lot of water but don’t want to sit in soggy soil. You’ll want the top 1-2″ of soil to be dry before watering again, so stick your finger into the soil every so often to see if you can still feel moisture. You can also use a pot with drainage holes to let out excess water.

Calathea plants are sensitive to the chlorine and fluoride in tap water, so using filtered or distilled or rainwater is best if possible. If you only have tap water, you can set the tap water out overnight in your watering jug to help the chlorine dissipate before watering.

Humidity and temperature for Calathea plants

Since Calatheas come from a more humid environment, they thrive at a humidity level of at least 50%. You can add more humidity to your home with a humidifier or you can put some pebbles and water in a tray and simply place your pot on top (make sure the water level sits below the top of the pebbles). The pot will sit on top of the stones and the water in the tray will evaporate and create humidity around the plant.

Bathrooms are a great spot for Calatheas (as long as it has the proper light for them) as they are a more humid environment.

70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit is the ideal temperature for Calathea plants and they won’t do well if it drops below 60 degrees.

How much sunlight do Calathea plants need?

Calatheas love to be in medium to bright indirect light. They can handle low light situations well, but their color and pattern may not be as vivid as it would be with more light. As a general rule, the darker the leaf on your variety of Calathea, the lower light requirement it needs to thrive.

You’ll want to stay away from direct light on your Calathea as that can damage the leaves and fade their color.

What’s the best soil for Calathea plants?

You’ll want a well-draining soil mix like this to keep your plant from getting too waterlogged.

Should I fertilize my Calathea plant?

It’s a good idea to fertilize your Calathea once a month to encourage growth. You can use a liquid fertilizer at half strength during the warmer growing season months and skip fertilizing in the winter when the growth is much slower.

Pruning Calathea plants

You won’t need to do much pruning on your Calathea plant! Just use sharp scissors or pruning shears to remove dead leaves or stems as they appear to keep your plant looking tidy.

Diagnosing common problems

• Brown leaf tips: Tap water can cause leaf tips to brown. If watering with tap water, dechlorinate your tap water by letting it sit out overnight in your watering can before watering.
• Yellowing leaves: Could be a sign of overwatering. Try letting the soil dry out more between watering and make sure the top 2″ of soil is dry before watering again.
• Curled leaves or droopy stems: Probably a sign of underwatering, give your plant a good drink and see if it bounces back.
• Pests: If you see mealy bugs, fungus gnats, or spider mites, spray weekly with neem oil and wipe down the plant with water.
• Leaf spots: Could be a build up of minerals from tap water; try using distilled or filtered or rainwater to water with instead.

Propagating Calathea plants

The only way you can propagate a Calathea plant is by dividing a mature plant into smaller plants. You can remove the plant from its container and gently separate the roots into however many plants you would like. Repot and water the new plants in separate pots and they will eventually start to propagate themselves and fill in more over time.

Spider plants have arched ribbon-like leaves that have variations of green or white and green stripes and they are especially pretty to use in a hanging basket display. They are one of the more popular varieties of house plants and they can take quite a bit of neglect so they are good for beginners to practice their green thumbs on as well.

Related: Learn to Care for Pilea Plants, Calathea, Fiddle Leaf Figs, Golden Pothos, Snake Plants, Rubber Trees, Christmas Cactus, and String of Pearls Plants.

Why are they called Spider plants? Spider plants are native to the coast of South Africa and during the warmer summer months they can produce small white flowers at the end of a long stem (called a “pup”) that resemble small spiders—these little spiders can be replanted to produce another spider plant!

Types of Spider Plants:

• Chlorophytum comosum ‘Variegatum’: This kind has cream or white margins of the leaf with a dark green stripe down the middle and the long stems that grow from it are green.
• Chlorophytum comosum ‘Vittatum’: This variety’s leaves have a white stripe down the center flanked by green margins and the long stems are white.
• Chlorophytum comosum ‘Bonnie’: This spider plant grows more compact and has more curly leaves with green outsides and a cream center stripe. Rather than white flowers, its flowers are yellow.

How Often Should I Water Spider Plants?

You’ll want the soil to start to dry out between waterings as spider plants like moist but not soggy soil. Too much water can cause root rot and kill the plant. Water your plant thoroughly and then check it a few days later by sticking a finger down into the soil to check the dampness level. Once the dirt feels only slightly moist it’s time to water again.

Spider plants can be more sensitive to fluoride and chlorine in tap water, so if you really want to pamper your plant you can use rainwater or distilled water instead.

Since spider plants are pretty good at retaining water they can handle a few forgotten watering sessions better than other plants and even go weeks at a time between waterings.

Keep an eye on the growth of your plant as you’ll want to move it to a bigger pot once the roots have outgrown the container.

How Much Sunlight Do Spider Plants Need?

Spider plants can live indoors in low to bright indirect light. The stripes of the plant actually change and look more prominent when exposed to more sun, but you don’t want to place the plant in direct sunlight as that will burn and damage the leaves.

Outdoors spider plants prefer light shade but it is possible for them to do well in medium to heavy shade but they will grow slower with less light.

Should I Fertilize My Spider Plant?

You can use an all-purpose fertilizer on your spider plant during the spring and summer growing seasons. Just add some once or twice a month but be careful not to overdo it as that can hurt the plant.

Follow the directions on the label for guidance on how much to use and you can even start with half-strength to see how your plant does.

Temperature and Humidity for Spider Plants

Since spider plants come from a warmer more humid climate, they do best at temperatures over 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep them away from air conditioning vents and drafts if growing them inside.

Pruning Spider Plants

You can remove any brown tips as they appear by using sharp scissors or pruning shears to cut them off, but spider plants generally don’t need a lot of pruning.

Repotting Spider Plants

If you see your roots coming out of the drainage holes at the bottom of your container or up through the top of the soil, that means the root ball is getting too big and you’ll want to repot your plant.

Use a container that is 1/3 bigger than your root ball (ideally with drainage holes) and you can crumple up the root ball with your hands to break up any large knots of roots to encourage them to spread out in the new pot.

Propagating Spider Plants

The tiny spiderettes that grow at the end of a long stem not only give this plant its name, but also can be replanted to grow yourself some more spider plants!

You can wait until the spiderette has started to grow roots before cutting it off and planting in its own soil pot, but the best method is to allow the plant to still be attached to the mother plant while you start to propagate it.

Simply place a pot of soil near the mother plant and let the spiderette sit on the soil until it starts to develop roots and grow into the pot. You can use a wire bent into a “U” (or a paperclip unfolded) to push into the soil around the stem to keep it in place on the dirt.

Only mature plants with enough stored energy will produce spiderettes so not all plants are capable of making them.

Related: How to Propagate Plants

Diagnosing Common Problems

• Dry crispy tips: Could be a sign of underwatering, try and water more frequently or mist the plant weekly to keep the humidity up.
• Dark brown tips: Could be a sign of overwatering, let the soil dry more between watering. Can also be from fluoridated tap water so you can try distilled or rain water for a while to see if that helps.
• Pests: Spider plants are usually more pest-resistant but if you are getting aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites you can rinse the plant with water or use neem oil for bigger infestations.

FAQ

The scientific name for the Golden Pothos is Epipremnum Aureum. It is also commonly known as Devil’s Ivy and it’s a vining foliage plant. It comes from the Araceae plant family.  

Epipremnums come in lots of shapes and sizes! The Golden Pothos loves to wrap around objects and climb whatever it can attach to. The leaves are a heart-like shape and it’s lovely to look at. It is so popular due to its easy care.

I find this plant thrives even when I forget about it. If you don’t have one already, it is a wonderful addition to your plant family. In this post, I am going to share some tips on keeping your Golden Pothos alive and well!

Related: Want more plant care tips? Learn about Monstera, Jade Plants, Pilea, Snake Plants, Rubber Trees, Peace Lilies, Calathea, Spider Plants, Christmas Cactus, Poinsettia, and Fiddle Leaf Figs.

Potting

First, when you get a plant, purchase one that looks healthy. Signs of a healthy plant will be upright leaves (no drooping) full of new growth and no yellow or brown leaves.

Once you’ve found your new plant, it’s time to find a pot. I love terra cotta or earthenware pots. Make sure the pot has a drainage hole so the water has a way of escaping or your plant will be prone to root rot (more on that later in the post).

You will want a pot that is one size up from the pot that it came in, which is about 2 inches bigger. Sometimes I find a beautiful decorative pot without a hole. If I don’t want to drill a hole at the bottom (using a drill bit), then I like to put my plant in a terra cotta pot.

Then, I place that pot inside of the decorative pot. I take it out of the decorative pot to water and let all the water drain out before putting it back in. 

The Pothos enjoy a standard indoor potting mix. I like Miracle Gro indoor potting mix. Depending on the size of the pot, I will add a scoop of Perlite and a scoop of orchid bark for added aeration. This way, the soil isn’t as compact.

Adding these will let water drain and not sit in the plant for too long. As your pothos grows, it will need repotting so it is not root-bound. Spring is the best time to repot your plant to a bigger pot.

When repotting, go up one pot size (as stated above) to give your plant room to grow.

Light

Now that your plant is potted, where should you place it? The Golden Pothos is VERY forgiving when it comes to lighting and can tolerate diverse lighting situations. 

If you have it in brighter light, it will grow faster; if you have low light, then it might be a slow grower. The best lighting situation for your Golden Pothos is bright, indirect light. It cannot tolerate direct sunlight because it will likely burn.

In its native environment, the pothos sits lower in the forest, under the trees. It doesn’t see a lot of direct sun because the light is filtered by the trees of the forest. I like to think of this when I’m placing it in my home. 

I like my pothos to be near, or in a room with a window. I have minimal window treatments on my windows so the maximum amount of sunlight can pour in. This helps to create a bright and healthy environment for my plants.

If you do not have a room with a window, this plant will still do well. I have one pothos in a bathroom without a window. The pothos loves the humidity from the shower. Even though there is no window, the plant is doing great! 

If your Golden Pothos leaves begin to lose their variegation, then the plant isn’t getting enough light. Simply place it closer to a window or in brighter light to sustain the variegation.

One thing to note about the Golden Pothos and its placement is that it is toxic to humans and pets. Do not let a pet or child chew the leaves on accident.

The inside of the plant contains calcium oxalate crystals. These crystals have a very harmful effect on humans and pets if they enter the mouth. Please be careful and place your plant away from pets or kids.

Water

The Golden Pothos doesn’t like to sit in water or be wet for too long. Figuring out your plants water schedule (and dry out time) will aid you tremendously.

This plant loves consistency. You will likely have this plant for years to come if you can figure out a consistent care schedule. 

I like to water my Pothos when the plant is pretty much dried out. It might be holding a little moisture but the top 2/3 of the plant are dried out. Once it is dry and ready for a drink, I give it a generous watering.

I let the water flow out and immediately discard any water that is left pooling in the saucer. The plant loves lukewarm water (around 60 degrees Fahrenheit). If you have city water, then pour your water the day before in an open container and let the chemicals evaporate.

You don’t have to do this, but it is just a little extra step that will help your plant in the long run. Collected rainwater and well water are excellent water sources as well.

Water your pothos well in the growing season (spring and summer months) and in the winter, don’t water as thoroughly but just keep the soil moist.

I like to remember that if my Golden Pothos is in brighter sun, it will dry out faster and need more watering. If the pothos is in a darker room, it will take longer to dry out and need less watering.

If the leaves turn yellow, this is likely due to overwatering, so back off watering and let your Pothos dry out more.

Pruning

In the wild, these plants will grow quite large and they will actually flower. Indoors though, the plant will likely not flower, but there is a small chance! If you like the vine look of the pothos, just let it grow!

You can place it on top of a shelf or a pedestal and it will eventually trail down. You can place the vines over objects or even clip them onto objects to promote the vines to attach to objects. If you prefer the “bushy” look for your pothos, then pinch off new growth.

If there is a vine that is getting too long, then you can prune the vine. To do this, use a freshly cleaned pair of scissors or shears. Cleaning your tools will keep your plant from being introduced to any bacteria when you cut it.

Cut the vine 1/4-/1/2 above a leaf. You can propagate your freshly cut vine or give it to a friend!

Propagating

The Golden Pothos is very easy to propagate. In fact, it is one of the easiest plants to propagate. In other countries (and in some parts of America), this plant is known as an invasive weed. So, this “invasive weed” will multiply and propagate quickly!

Let’s go over some propagation methods. The two methods are water and soil. I find water to be the most satisfying method. Simply cut (like stated above) a healthy vine.

I like my vines to be between 6-12 inches. Depending on the glass vessel I am placing it in, I will remove all leaves on the bottom of my cutting so there are no leaves in the water. 

Make sure all foliage is above the water line. Let your plant sit in a sunny spot and you will see little roots begin to appear. Change water anytime it gets cloudy or dirty and give the vessel a rinse.

Once roots start to grow, you can leave your plant in the water (roots will get nice and long) or transfer it to soil.

If you’d like to place your fresh cutting directly in soil then use a pencil or chopstick and place your cutting in a small pot of soil. Keep the dirt moist and check on it every few days. If it is dry then give it a light drink. Roots will form and your cutting will grow on its own!

Fertilize

The Golden Pothos love to be fed in the spring and summer months (also known as the growing season) using a balanced fertilizer. Not sure what a balanced fertilizer is? 

The fertilizer will have 3 letters on the package: NPK. The “N” stands for Nitrogen. Nitrogen helps with chlorophyll production, which leads to photosynthesis, which leads to a bigger, healthier plant and more foliage! The “P” stands for Phosphorus.

Phosphorus helps with keeping the roots of your plant healthy and promotes root growth. The last letter “K” stands for Potassium. Potassium helps your plant distribute nutrients. It also helps your plant fight off disease.

Think of it as an immunity booster for your plant! A standard fertilizer for houseplants will work great for your pothos. Make sure to read the label of your fertilizer and follow the instructions. I like using half of the recommended fertilizer amount with the pothos.

Using too much fertilizer can cause your plant to burn. Burning means that too many nutrients have been stored in the root system and they cannot accept/absorb water anymore.

If there is a chance that your plant has had too much fertilizer then give it a good watering to flush the roots. Don’t fertilize the next time so that your plant has time to recover and rest. 

I use liquid fertilizer for my plants. Knowing my fertilizer is a liquid gives me the peace of mind that the fertilizer is evenly distributed throughout the water (unlike granules or a powder mix). I do not fertilize the pothos in the winter time, but give it a rest period.

Troubleshooting

Another wonderful aspect of the Golden Pothos is that it can tell you what it needs! The leaves show when they are in need of something or if they are getting too much of something.

The most common thing your pothos will do is have droopy leaves. If this happens, your plant is thirsty and needs a good watering. After a few hours of being watered, the leaves will slowly perk up and become more firm. It is amazing to see the difference!  

If your leaves are turning yellow, this is a sign of overwatering. The yellowing of the leaves is called Chlorosis. Chlorosis means that chlorophyll is not forming in your plant. If your leaf is turning yellow, it is likely a call for help.

Back off watering and make sure your plant is drying out between watering so that it doesn’t get waterlogged. If it continues to happen, then pop your plant out of the pot and check for root rot.

The quickest way to tell if your plant has succumbed to root rot is finding mushy, black or dark roots. If you see this, sometimes your plant can be saved but there is a chance the roots are done and the plant won’t make it.

If you can, snip the dead roots out of the root system and place the plant in a pot of fresh soil (not the waterlogged soil from the previous pot). Give your plant some time and hopefully it will come back to life!

There are different varieties of the Pothos and their care is very similar. In the image above, this variegated Pothos on the left is called Marble Queen.

I love the stark variegation! I hope you keep an eye out for the Golden Pothos and take one home if you don’t have one already! -Janae

The plant originates from the southern tip of Africa, and its uniqueness makes this plant a favorite for plant parents. String of Pearls is a creeping succulent that has green balls for leaves (they look like peas)!

In this post, I am going to share some tips on caring for a string of pearls. I will also share some other species of this plant family at the end of the post.

Related: Love plants? Learn how to care for Jade Plants, Rubber Trees, Snake Plants, Chinese Money Plants, Fiddle Leaf Figs, Peace Lilies, Calathea, Spider Plants, Air Plants, Monstera Plants, Christmas Cactus, Poinsettia, and Golden Pothos.

Potting

When you get a string of pearls from a garden store, what’s next? You will need some well-draining succulent soil mix, which you can buy at most garden centers. It has a mix of soil and sand.

The sand helps aid in soil aeration and lets the water flow more freely through the soil. I also like to put some extra perlite in my succulent soil.

Perlite is found in nature and is actually formed by volcanic eruptions. Perlite is great for helping your soil drain the water out faster, as well. 

For pots, get one that is about the same size (definitely not smaller) or a tiny bit bigger than the plastic pot that it came in (it will likely come in a plastic hanging basket). I like to use a terracotta pot or an earthenware pot. 

The most important aspect when choosing a pot is that it must have a drainage hole so the water has a way of escaping. If the water cannot escape the pot, then there is a good chance the plant could die due to being waterlogged.

Next, mix up your soil with a couple of scoops of perlite and have it ready to go. Take your pot and put a little soil in the bottom.

Next, carefully remove your string of pearls from the pot by gently placing your hand on top of the plant, slightly wiggle the pot until the plant pops out.

You might lose a few pearls (leaves) in this process, but that’s OK! Place your plant in the pot and make sure the plant sits about even with the pot’s rim. I put the roots about 1 centimeter under the rim and the pearls are all on top of the rim.

Don’t let the plant lay lower than the pot’s rim because water can pool on top of the leaves. 

The plant loves to drink up light and trail over the edge of the pot. Once you have the crown of the plant placed correctly, take the extra dirt and backfill around the plant. I like using a chopstick to push down the dirt around the plant.

Once you’re done backfilling the dirt, the string or pearls will likely need untangling (especially if you have a long one). Be patient during this process. If I slightly tug on a stem it could snap!

Carefully look for a whole stem and gently untangle it so it lays draping over the pot. I go around the whole plant until all stems are untangled. You will probably lose a few more pearls during this process too, but it’s OK! 

Note: Even though this plant has lots of amazing qualities, string of pearls plants are toxic for humans and pets if ingested. If a bead (leaf) falls off a stem onto the floor, then I will quickly pick it up so my dog does not eat them. 

Light

The string of pearls likes a bright and sunny environment in your home. An east or west facing window will work great. I place mine right near a window so they can drink up lots of light.

Try to avoid placing it near any vents or drafty parts of your home (near a door opening up in the winter, etc.). It will not like any kind of extreme air temperatures blowing on it. During the warmer summer months, you can also put it under a sun porch or covered porch to soak up bright indirect light.

Direct sunlight could burn your plant, so try to avoid it sitting in the sun for hours on end or they will get scorched. When temps begin to drop, bring your plant indoors.

Before you bring it indoors, always check for pests or bugs. When I was bringing in my succulents from our covered porch at the end of summer, I found a baby black widow hiding under a leaf. This has happened to me again a couple of years later!

My lesson was learned quickly so thoroughly inspect any plant before you bring it back into your home.

Watering

Figuring out a watering routine and getting to know your plant’s schedule will really pay off. String of pearls do not like to get soaked or sit in water for long periods of time. I like to say that I “moisten” my string of pearls instead of watering them.

This helps remind me that they don’t need excessive water. The plant has a shallow root system, so generally the top half of my string of pearls pot needs water. I use a small vessel with water in it and lightly water over the whole top of the plant.

Overwatering the string of pearls will be the biggest killer to your plant. You can tell if a plant is overwatered by the leaves looking squishy or they lose their deep green color and become a bit translucent and soft. 

If you are shopping for a new string of pearls, be mindful of this. You’ll want a plant with deep green pearls and soil that is not waterlogged.

Not sure when to water your string of pearls? It really depends on where you live and humidity levels. Dryer climates will require more water and vice versa.

You can test the soil by sticking your finger in a part of the soil to check moisture levels or lift your pot to see if it has any weight from holding water.

Make sure your water temp is lukewarm to cool (think of rainwater temp). The string of pearls will not tolerate extreme cold or hot temps when watering.

They love to be watered frequently in the spring and summer months (during its growing season), but back off on frequent watering in the fall/winter months. The string of pearls likes to dry out but not be bone dry.

How can you tell when it is bone dry? The dirt around the circumference of the pot will pull away from the pot. If this has happened, no worries, give it a watering and try to water your plant sooner next time to avoid the dirt drying out too much.

If this happened multiple times, it could affect your leaves and plant’s root health. Another aspect of root health is root rot. This can be detrimental to your plant.

Root rot happens when the roots stand in water too long and they eventually rot and die. It can be a very sad and slow death for a string of pearls.

If you suspect that your plant has been sitting in water for too long and it might have root rot, pull it out of the pot to inspect the roots. If the roots are firm and grayish white, that is great. If they are mushy and look blackish, then your plant likely has root rot.

If it’s not too far gone, you can try to snip the dead roots off and leave the healthy, firm ones. Placing the plant in fresh (not waterlogged soil) will help as well. 

What is the best kind of water to use? If you are using tap/city water, you can leave your tap water out in an open container for 24 hours so some of the chemicals evaporate. After 24 hours, the water is cleaner and healthier for your plant!

Fluoride and chlorine can build up in your string of pearls root system, so this method of leaving your water out will pay off in the long run. Using filtered water or collected rain water (if you can) is a great option, too!

If you have well water, then your plant will love that. My friends who have well water have THE best plants. 

Propagating

You can propagate the string of pearls three ways! The first way is by using water. First, find a healthy stem. I like to use stems that are at least 4-5 inches.

Using clean scissors or cutting shears, cut your stem. Remove any beads about 1.5-2 inches from the bottom of the cutting.

Leave the stem laying out for 24 hours so the fresh cut on the end of the stem can form a callus. Make sure it stays out of any sunlight during this healing period.

After 24 hours, place your fresh cutting in water. The side of the cutting with the removed leafs can be placed in the water. Keep the remaining pearls above the water line.

Be sure to change water anytime it gets cloudy and rinse out your vessel. Place in a sunny spot in your home. After 3-4 weeks you should see little roots sprouting from the cutting! 

Wait until the roots are at least 1 inch long before you plant it in dirt. Once it is ready to be potted, use a small terra-cotta or clay pot with good draining cactus/succulent soil.

I like to use a chopstick to create little holes for the newly rooted plant. Moisten lightly and your plant should start growing.

The next way to propagate is by using dirt. Using the same methods as above, you will snip your plant, wait 24 hours, and instead of placing it in water, place your plant in soil (well draining, succulent soil).

Use a chopstick (or pencil) to create a fresh hole for your new cutting, tuck the dirt around the plant. I like to mist my plant to keep the soil slightly moist and not bone dry.

After about three weeks, I give the plant a very gentle tug to see if it is rooting. If the new cutting stays in place, then I know new roots are forming. This is always exciting! If your plant has started to form roots, then it is ready for a watering.

Another way to propagate your string of pearls is by layering. I find this approach to be the most effective. Take a fresh pot of succulent soil, mist it, and then take a good long cutting from your string of pearls. Swirl or coil the cutting over the top of the dirt on the pot. 

Fertilizing

I like to fertilize my plant once a month during the growing season (spring and summer) using a balanced fertilizer. I use half of the manufacturer’s recommended rate when I mix my fertilizer.

I love liquid fertilizer because it mixes so easily with the water and I don’t have to worry about it not being evenly distributed in my plants.

One thing I love about this species of plant is the different varieties. Pictured above is “String of Turtles”—the turtles look like little turtles backs. “String of Watermelons” are plump and their leaves resemble a watermelon (pictured below). 

Aren’t they unique and whimsical? I hope you enjoy these plants as much as me! -Janae

My favorite rubber tree is in a scene from the movie Sabrina with Audrey Hepburn. In the scene, they are having a lavish party and there is a beautiful, tall rubber tree in the room. That rubber tree is definitely a plant goal for me.

Maybe someday mine will get that big and beautiful! With proper care, the tree can reach up to 10 feet tall (sometimes taller) indoors! 

Related: Love plants? Learn to care for Fiddle Leaf Figs, Jade Plants, Calathea, Pilea Plants, Snake Plants, Monstera, Peace Lilies, Air Plants, Spider Plants, Christmas Cactus, Poinsettia, and String of Pearls.

The rubber tree is also known as the Ficus Elastica and comes from India and parts of tropical Asia. The shiny, leathery leaves give this plant a distinct look. There is really nothing like it! The rubber tree has a wonderful shape and is a great option for anyone who loves houseplants. 

Potting

When you bring home a new rubber tree, here are a few things to consider in regards to potting it. It might seem like a good idea to put your plant in a big pot so it has lots of room to grow, but the rubber tree prefers to be a bit crowded in a pot.

Try to choose a pot that gives about 2 inches of soil around the whole diameter. This will give your plant plenty of room to grow and thrive. When choosing a pot, earthenware is always a great option. Unglazed earthenware allows the moisture in the dirt to evaporate out of the pot and dry out faster.

A glazed earthenware pot will not have the same abilities to let the moisture come out. I use both kinds of pots but a really important aspect of the pot is to make sure it has a drainage hole so water has a way to escape (sitting water will most definitely kill your rubber tree).

Once you have your pot figured out, it’s time to think about soil. The rubber tree likes well draining soil. An all-purpose indoor mix works great, but I add some extra perlite to give the soil more aeration.

Perlite is an organic material that comes from volcanic eruptions and you can find it at most garden stores. Scoop some of your potting mix and place it on the bottom of the pot. Then, put your plant in so that it sits about 3 inches under the top pot.

Fill in the rest of the dirt, making sure your plant stays nice and straight. Use your hand to move dirt down as you move around the pot. Once the sides are filled, place a small layer of dirt over the top of your plant.

Once the plant is potted, place it in the spot you intend to leave it (rubber trees don’t like change). Repotting can sometimes make your plant drop leaves, so if this happens, don’t fret … it’s just getting used to its new environment.

A period of rest is vital for your rubber tree once it’s been repotted and placed in a new spot. Not sure about the best spot to put your plant?

Light

This plant loves to drink up the light, so placement in your home is crucial to maintain a healthy plant. The first thing when choosing a spot is to make sure that it doesn’t have a draft, isn’t near a vent, or has an AC unit blowing on it.

The plant will most likely drop leaves (or it can die) if it is near a draft. The rubber trees thrive on an indoor temperature of 60-70 degrees Fahrenheit. Find a place in your home with medium to bright light. Brighter light will help your plant grow faster.

If you put it in a darker spot of a room it can become “leggy” as it tries to stretch toward the light. If your plant is “reaching” then just place it in a brighter spot. The rubber tree has some beautiful variegated species that do require more light.

The tricolor variegated species has green, white and pink in its leaves. The white in the leaf requires more light due to lack of chlorophyll levels. They can “burn” easily so keep an eye on the leaves.

They will tell you if they are getting too much light. If there is any brown on the tip (burning), that means there is too much light hitting your variegated plant. 

Back to the non-variegated rubber tree. What if you don’t have great window light or you’re worried about your room being too dark? Placing a mirror by the plant will help bounce more light onto your plant.

Another tip to create a brighter environment is a white room. White paint will bounce more light around! Seems so simple, but it really is effective in helping with a low light situation in a room.

If you want to get maximum light on your rubber tree, then make sure the leaves are free of dust. I have found that the rubber tree can get quite dusty, so check the leaves every few weeks for dust buildup.

If there is dust present, then a damp cloth will work great to remove it. When dusting the rubber tree, be careful with new leaves. The new, thin leaves are very fragile and if damaged while they are young, then the damage will stay on the leaf its whole life.

When dusting mature leaves, make sure you place your hand under the leaf for support. Extra pressure on the leaf could cause it to snap while dusting. This has happened to me before and it’s quite sad.

When it snaps, there will be a white sap-like liquid that comes from the leaf where it was detached from the branch. It is completely normal but it can irritate some people’s skin, so wash hands just in case it gets on your skin.

Watering

Finding a consistent watering rhythm for your tree will help give you the confidence you need to keep your plant alive and healthy for years to come. If the leaves start to droop a bit, then you know your plant is very thirsty.

Rubber trees like to dry out but they don’t like to become bone dry. Another way to tell if your plant is really thirsty is when you’re watering and the water runs out quickly through the soil. Soil with more moisture will take longer to drain. If the water runs straight through, then give it another good soak.

The rubber tree enjoys generous watering but make sure it has time to dry out to avoid root rot (this happens when the plant is waterlogged or if it sits in water too long).

If root rot happens. then your plant doesn’t have a great chance of living anymore, so avoid overwatering at all costs. As a rule of thumb, let the top 2/3 of your plant’s soil dry out before watering your rubber tree again.

You can also stick your finger in the soil 3-4 inches) and feel if there is any moisture or pick up the pot and feel if the post is heavy from holding moisture. After watering your rubber tree, if any water drains into your saucer, discard the extra water so the plant doesn’t sit in water and get root rot.

Watering duration will depend on your climate and humidity levels. If you live in a drier climate, then your plant will need to be watered more frequently. Once you figure out your plant’s rhythm/duration of drying out, a watering routine should be really easy to adhere to. This plant loves consistency and will grow better with a steady routine.

Pruning

The rubber tree can grow tall if left unpruned. If left unpruned, your tree will have one long trunk. If this is your desired look, then great! This will make your tree grow vertical faster!

If you’d like to have more of a “bushy” tree, then you can use your fingers and pinch off a new growing tip to promote the plant to create more branches.

If you snip or prune a branch, then that part will split into two branches once the new growth comes in. Pruning is an exciting habit that produces great results over time.

Fertilizing

The rubber tree loves to be fed with fertilizer to promote growth. Fertilize your tree in the spring/summer (the growing season), but back off in the fall/winter months. Fertilizing your plant every other watering session is a good rule of thumb.

I love using a liquid fertilizer that I can add to my water. 

Knowing my fertilizer is a liquid gives me the peace of mind that the fertilizer is evenly distributed throughout the water (unlike granules or a powder mix). When choosing fertilizer, it will have three letters on the package: NPK.

The “N” stands for Nitrogen. Nitrogen helps with chlorophyll production, which leads to photosynthesis, which leads to a bigger, healthier plant! The “P” stands for Phosphorus. Phosphorus helps with keeping the roots of your plant healthy and promotes root growth.

The last letter “K” stands for Potassium. Potassium helps your plant distribute nutrients. It also helps your plant fight off disease. Think of it as an immunity booster for your plant! A standard fertilizer for houseplants will work great for your rubber tree.

Make sure to read the label of your fertilizer and follow the instructions. I like using half of the recommended fertilizer amount with the rubber tree. Using too much fertilizer can cause your plant to burn.

Burning means that too many nutrients have been stored in the root system and they cannot accept/absorb water anymore. If there is a chance that your plant has had too much fertilizer then give it a good watering to flush the roots. Don’t fertilize the next week so that your plant has time to recover and rest.

What if Your Rubber Tree is Dropping Leaves?

When you repot your rubber tree or move it, it is very common for it to drop a couple of leaves due to shock. Old leaves will fall off here and there as they age out as well. This is totally normal!

What if your rubber tree drops a bunch of leaves at the same time? This isn’t normal and it could be due to overwatering or other issues. If your tree’s leaves begin to droop, turn yellow and eventually fall off, then this is most likely due to overwatering.

The yellowing of the leaves is called Chlorosis. Chlorosis means that chlorophyll is not forming in your plant. It is amazing that plants can tell you what they need through their color.

If your leaf is turning yellow, it is likely a call for help. Back off watering and make sure your plant is drying out between watering so that it doesn’t get waterlogged.

If it continues to happen, pop your plant out of the pot and check for root rot. The quickest way to tell if your plant has succumbed to root rot is finding mushy, black or dark roots. If you see this, sometimes your plant can be saved but there is a chance the roots are done and the plant won’t make it.

If you can, snip the dead roots out of the root system and place the plant in a pot of fresh soil (not the waterlogged soil from the previous pot). Give your plant some time and hopefully it will come back to life! 

Another reason your plant’s leaves could be turning yellow is a lack of light. If this is the case, then set your plant in a brighter spot so it can soak up more sun. The sun is like medicine for your plant and this could cure your leaf drop problem. Also, make sure the plant is not near a draft as this will also cause the leaves to drop.

The rubber tree’s temperament is pretty easygoing and it is a great addition to any plant lover’s home. I hope these tips help and you’re able to enjoy your rubber tree for years to come! -Janae